PAETYN RECTOR

The root of antiquing and collecting in Lisbon, Portugal

all photo credit to Kelsey Kerr**

From dusk ‘til dawn on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the artists, musicians, collectors, and professional consumers of Lisbon join together at Feira da Ladra, Portugal’s largest flea market.

“Feria da Ladra” translates, roughly, to “Thieves’ Market,” but over the years has overcome that negatively connotated name (despite some of the tiles for sale having been stolen off of still existing buildings). Tracing back to its roots from the 12th century, this bustling corner of town carries a little bit of everything you could be on the hunt for. The market holds over 200 vendors from original artwork and rare antiques, to vintage clothing, classic books, and authentic Portuguese dishes. Whether scavenging for hidden treasures or soaking in the local culture, Feira da Ladra is the place to spend your Tuesday or Saturday.

So many of the vendors are from Portugal or traveled there to pursue what they love. Miguel Gonçalves is a vendor who sells his personal art in both large- and small- scale prints, tote bags, framed pieces, and more. His stall is located right at the entrance of Mercado de Santa Clara

“I used to be a tattoo artist and an art teacher,” Gonçalves says. “So,this summer Istarted working on vinyl prints, and thanks to a couple of friends, I started doing markets, and itchanged my life completely this summer.”

Fueling his drive to create, Gonçalves worked as a freelance illustrator, working with independent video game companies until so many of those positions struggled as the pandemic blew through. He studied product design in high school, then went on to study concept art and cinema during his undergraduate years at Middlesborough. Building on his background in these various art forms, he completed his tattoo apprenticeship at New Haven Studio before opening his own creative space.

“I JUST LIKE DRAWING. I NEED TO MAKE A LIVING, SO MIXING PASSION WITH JOB SOUNDED LIKE THE ANSWER.”

-MIGUEL GONÇALVES

Wandering the market, the atmosphere is electric, ignited by so many creators coming together to build something extraordinary. All of these vendors are bound by one truth: they love what they do. The energy at Feira da Ladra is magnetic and infectious, born from the collective passion and raw creativity that these artists bring to the table.

“[The culture is] amazing. You might expect some competitions, and some of us sell similar things,” Gonçalves says regarding the market’s community. “But I got into it a month and a half ago, and everyone’s just been so supportive , so helpful. I have only good things to say
about it.”

Another seller with a slightly different story but the same passion sells a little bit of everything you could imagine, and he is sat right outside of his storefront every Tuesday and Saturday from 7am setup to 7pm takedown. Mario was born in Lisbon and opened his storefront 30 years ago.

“I was a composer buyer,” Mario says. “And after, it was the opportunity to stay with the shops, and that’s why.

Between pocket watches, old books, frames, and every antique you could think of, Mario’s favorite is all of his porcelain.

“I like Portuguese porcelain from Vista Alegre, from Sacavém, from old Portuguese [makers],” Mario says.

Founded in 1824, the Vista Alegre Porcelain Factory was the very first porcelain production facility in Portugal (Vista Alegre, n.d.). Operating out of the Vista Alegre Chapel, José Ferreira Pinto Basto began collecting and acquiring to make a name for himself. Later passed on to his son, the family tradition continued and the name of this establishment spoke for itself. With recognition fromQueen Elizabeth II and working alongside other artists, this establishment was soon familiar to every person in Portugal. Today, on the same grounds as the factory, the Vista Alegre Museum displays the growth of Portuguese porcelain.

No matter what brings you to Feira da Ladra, each vendor embraces you with a hospitable smile and a trove of treasures waiting for the right eye to claim them. Each collectable is a story waiting to be told and a way to take a little piece of Lisbon home with whomever it may grace.